Garden of Eatin'

If you’ve ever walked into a Boston restaurant and had no idea what it was about from the look of the place, you’re not alone. There’s no such confusion on entering Cultivar, the new fine-dining establishment in the Ames Hotel from veteran chef Mary Dumont (ex-Harvest). Her worship of the fruits of the earth is evident everywhere, from the moss-ball garden hanging in the dining room rafters to the hydroponic garden-in-a-shipping-container on the patio, which generates crates full of fresh produce every week. Alongside chef de cuisine Brian Young, she applies that bounty to plate after Instagrammable plate here, showering them with headily fragrant fresh herbs, sharply flavored microgreens and pretty edible flowers.